Ok so its not actually until tomorrow evening that we will be starting the journey home, but I'm just ready to say "Homeward bound". I am so excited to be heading home! Tomorrow night (which is the 26th here) we will fly to Mumbai, spend the evening there, then the following day we fly from Mumbai to London. Paul has arranged our tickets so that we have an overnight in London before flying the following day to Seattle. This way we will have a chance to go into London (okay so maybe I could've visited London last time instead of sleeping at the airport if I were as super-keen as Paul!) In London we will try to visit the Victoria & Albert Museum of Applied Arts. And eat anything but Indian food. We will leave London around 4pm on Wednesday the 28th, and will arrive in Seattle around 5pm the same day in local time. That will be the longest one hour ever! If we don't get a chance to write before we arrive home, our next post should be on Wednesday evening the 28th. Until then!
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Originally posted on 2/24/07 by Leah
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Saturday, July 31, 2010
Thursday, July 29, 2010
4 more days!
Well now we only have 4 days to go, and I don't think I could eat another masala dosa. Certainly not another aloo gobi (potato cauliflower in spicy gravy sauce.) I am so much looking forward to eating a fresh crisp salad with apples and goat cheese. Paul really wants a cheeseburger. This is the longest he's ever gone without eating meat! (Oh my, we'll have to change that.) 4 more days, still a busy time to go... I will be checking out some hand quilting, machine quilting, and other stitchery, while Paul will be strategizing and making graphs and spreadsheets and other businessy type stuff. We may both need a vacation after this!
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Originally posted on 2/22/07 by Leah
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Originally posted on 2/22/07 by Leah
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Tuesday, July 27, 2010
A few corrections...(by Leah)
Here are a few corrections from previous entries that I thought I'd post in one go...
1. India's birthday is actually Independence Day (August 15th,) not Republic Day (January 26th.) Oops.
2. There actually ARE traffic lights in Ahmedabad, but they have only been here for the past year or two, and so they seem to be largely ignored. (Which is why I hadn't noticed them I guess!)
3. Organic cotton may not be that likely to replace conventional cotton farming within 20 years time. This was one very hopeful perspective (which we liked very much!) but after further enquiry, it seems that it may not be that accurate of a projection. Although organic farming clearly looks better in the long term than conventional farming does, it also requires more commitment, attention, observation, care, and manual labour in order to work, as well as a transitional period that can be a difficult gap to pass through. This effort and level of commitment may not be that attractive to all farmers, especially the large-scale farms. We'll see about those 20 years...
4. I can't take the credit for the "master-planning" of this trip- the planning for these two weeks while Paul is here was done mostly by our hosts in Ahmedabad, as well as their contacts with whom we've met. It's so nice that Paul thinks I could pull that off though!
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Originally posted on 2/22/07 by Leah
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1. India's birthday is actually Independence Day (August 15th,) not Republic Day (January 26th.) Oops.
2. There actually ARE traffic lights in Ahmedabad, but they have only been here for the past year or two, and so they seem to be largely ignored. (Which is why I hadn't noticed them I guess!)
3. Organic cotton may not be that likely to replace conventional cotton farming within 20 years time. This was one very hopeful perspective (which we liked very much!) but after further enquiry, it seems that it may not be that accurate of a projection. Although organic farming clearly looks better in the long term than conventional farming does, it also requires more commitment, attention, observation, care, and manual labour in order to work, as well as a transitional period that can be a difficult gap to pass through. This effort and level of commitment may not be that attractive to all farmers, especially the large-scale farms. We'll see about those 20 years...
4. I can't take the credit for the "master-planning" of this trip- the planning for these two weeks while Paul is here was done mostly by our hosts in Ahmedabad, as well as their contacts with whom we've met. It's so nice that Paul thinks I could pull that off though!
------------------------------------
Originally posted on 2/22/07 by Leah
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Sunday, July 25, 2010
The entire process - a pictorial
Well, its official. We have seen every step in the chain from Organic cotton farming through to Stitching. Here is a quick snapshot of each stage, all of which we have seen in the past week first hand. Amazing.
Organic Cotton Farming
Cotton Ginning
Spinning
Traditional Weaving
Mechanical Weaving
Mechanical Knitting
Chemical Dyeing (We will never, ever do this!)
Natural Dyeing
Screen Printing
Cutting
Stitching
All of these photos and more are on our Picasa Web album.
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Originally posted on 2/21/07 by Paul
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Organic Cotton Farming
Cotton Ginning
Spinning
Traditional Weaving
Mechanical Weaving
Mechanical Knitting
Chemical Dyeing (We will never, ever do this!)
Natural Dyeing
Screen Printing
Cutting
Stitching
All of these photos and more are on our Picasa Web album.
------------------------------------
Originally posted on 2/21/07 by Paul
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Friday, July 23, 2010
Photos, lots of 'em
Here is a link to our web album where we are collecting a selection of our best photos from the trip. Check back every once in a while for new additions...
http://picasaweb.google.com/paularonw/TenfoldGoesToIndia02
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Originally posted on 2/19/07 by Paul
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http://picasaweb.google.com/paularonw/TenfoldGoesToIndia02
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Originally posted on 2/19/07 by Paul
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Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Indore, the long road, and organic farming
Paul and I arrived in Indore on Sunday morning, where we were greeted by the project manager of an organic farming project. We then went pretty much directly from Indore to our destination, which was in village outside of Indore, to visit an organic farm. Although the village was only around 150 kms outside of Indore, it ended up taking us about 6 hours to get there. I guess it was because of the single lane road for a substantial part of the way, our 2 stops at temples along the way (Jain temples that our host implied he was hoping would inspire us to convert to his religion) one tea stop, and one lunch stop. Also I think the 800 sheep, 150 goats, 80 camels and 45 cows that took over the road at different points along the way had something to do with the slow going as well. A visual feast, although very bumpy and windy. Needless to say, we were both very happy to get out of the car after the way there, as well as after the way back, the following day.
The organic farm we visited was very interesting and added yet another layer to the picture on organic farming. Our host stated that he believes that organic cotton farming will (not only can, but will) replace conventional cotton farming within 20 years time. This gives us great hope! The reason why he holds this belief is because it is so clear that conventional cotton farming is unsustainable, and cannot continue as it is going without addressing major issues of soil fertility. The concept of applying chemicals to plants and soil to kill pests, which in addition kills all of the beneficial insects, harming the birds which feed on those insects, the essential benefical bacteria and enzymes in the soil which give life to the soil, and the worms which add numerous benefits to the soil including the ability for the soil to retain water- in light of these effects of the application of chemicals, it seems absolutely necessary that organic farming practices replace conventional practices.
Conventional cotton farming, which relies heavily on chemical pesticides and fertilizers, has only been around for a few decades. Prior to this, all farming was based on organic means, so it is not that far off, however, India has seen quite a change in farming practices in that short period. The "Green Revolution" which happened in India in the 60's and 70's, turned farmers on to chemical methods of controlling pests, which in turn requires the use of synthetic fertilizers. The use of chemicals has resulted in infertile soil which lacks the ability to sustain itself, thus becoming dependant on the application of very strong and expensive chemicals. As the soil becomes uninhabitable for worms, so it also becomes very dry and not as able to hold moisture. Thus rains fall yet are not absorbed, and more water is needed to irrigate the soil. Also, as pests become immune to the pesticides, insecticides, and fungicides, new, stronger concoctions are required to keep them at bay. This in turn makes the soil even less fertile which creates a downward spiral. In the worst case, which is not uncommon, it leads the farmer to such despair that he chooses to take his own life. Farmer suicides in India are linked to conventional cotton farming practices, and "at least 500 cotton farmers have committed suicide in the state of Maharashtra since June 2005."- source:http://www.wsws.org/articles/2006/may2006/indi-m12.shtml) This shocking reality is another clear indicator that change is needed.
Some concepts of organic farming:
The principles of Bio-Dynamics seem to have been embraced throughout India in the organic farming movement. This is a very fascinating philosophy and approach to organic farming which I am still learning about. For more info, check out the website: http://www.biodynamics.com/biodynamics.html. This website explains bio-dynamism so eloquently that I can only say: go check it out! All three of the organic farms I have visited in India have embraced the principles of bio-dynamism. Using cow's manure, cow's urine, wormy peat, wormy wash (water drained from the wormy peat), fermented buttermilk, fermented neem leaves, and a whole range of other fermented ingredients, concoctions are created to bring life back to the soil, and to ward off pests. Bio-dynamism is essentially a spiritual approach to organic farming, which seems to be readily embraced in India by a land that seamlessly ties the spiritual into everyday life. Gods, Goddesses, prayers, flowers, ceremonies, and incense- everywhere in India the spiritual is celebrated in the everyday. Even in the rickshaws little shrines are displayed as shiny stickers and strings of flowers along the dash. An organic approach just fits here. Of course, chemicals also seem to fit in very well, as India is also a paradox. It will take committment and perseverance to make that organic vision a reality.
------------------------------------
Originally posted on 2/19/07 by Leah
------------------------------------
The organic farm we visited was very interesting and added yet another layer to the picture on organic farming. Our host stated that he believes that organic cotton farming will (not only can, but will) replace conventional cotton farming within 20 years time. This gives us great hope! The reason why he holds this belief is because it is so clear that conventional cotton farming is unsustainable, and cannot continue as it is going without addressing major issues of soil fertility. The concept of applying chemicals to plants and soil to kill pests, which in addition kills all of the beneficial insects, harming the birds which feed on those insects, the essential benefical bacteria and enzymes in the soil which give life to the soil, and the worms which add numerous benefits to the soil including the ability for the soil to retain water- in light of these effects of the application of chemicals, it seems absolutely necessary that organic farming practices replace conventional practices.
Conventional cotton farming, which relies heavily on chemical pesticides and fertilizers, has only been around for a few decades. Prior to this, all farming was based on organic means, so it is not that far off, however, India has seen quite a change in farming practices in that short period. The "Green Revolution" which happened in India in the 60's and 70's, turned farmers on to chemical methods of controlling pests, which in turn requires the use of synthetic fertilizers. The use of chemicals has resulted in infertile soil which lacks the ability to sustain itself, thus becoming dependant on the application of very strong and expensive chemicals. As the soil becomes uninhabitable for worms, so it also becomes very dry and not as able to hold moisture. Thus rains fall yet are not absorbed, and more water is needed to irrigate the soil. Also, as pests become immune to the pesticides, insecticides, and fungicides, new, stronger concoctions are required to keep them at bay. This in turn makes the soil even less fertile which creates a downward spiral. In the worst case, which is not uncommon, it leads the farmer to such despair that he chooses to take his own life. Farmer suicides in India are linked to conventional cotton farming practices, and "at least 500 cotton farmers have committed suicide in the state of Maharashtra since June 2005."- source:http://www.wsws.org/articles/2006/may2006/indi-m12.shtml) This shocking reality is another clear indicator that change is needed.
Some concepts of organic farming:
The principles of Bio-Dynamics seem to have been embraced throughout India in the organic farming movement. This is a very fascinating philosophy and approach to organic farming which I am still learning about. For more info, check out the website: http://www.biodynamics.com/biodynamics.html. This website explains bio-dynamism so eloquently that I can only say: go check it out! All three of the organic farms I have visited in India have embraced the principles of bio-dynamism. Using cow's manure, cow's urine, wormy peat, wormy wash (water drained from the wormy peat), fermented buttermilk, fermented neem leaves, and a whole range of other fermented ingredients, concoctions are created to bring life back to the soil, and to ward off pests. Bio-dynamism is essentially a spiritual approach to organic farming, which seems to be readily embraced in India by a land that seamlessly ties the spiritual into everyday life. Gods, Goddesses, prayers, flowers, ceremonies, and incense- everywhere in India the spiritual is celebrated in the everyday. Even in the rickshaws little shrines are displayed as shiny stickers and strings of flowers along the dash. An organic approach just fits here. Of course, chemicals also seem to fit in very well, as India is also a paradox. It will take committment and perseverance to make that organic vision a reality.
------------------------------------
Originally posted on 2/19/07 by Leah
------------------------------------
Monday, July 19, 2010
Catch up post...
Today is Monday, and I am a week into my trip, though I've only been in India for 5 full days. My trip so far has been masterfully planned by Leah, filling the time with an impressive variety of tours, meetings and new contacts. I have to say that Leah has done an amazing job of finding amazing people here who can not only teach us about the organic way of life, but who are also savvy business people and great potential partners.
Since we have not been able to keep up with each day, I will bring everyone up to speed on where we have been so far and what we have learned...
Ahmedabad
Following our epic day in Coimbatore, Leah and I flew that evening to Ahmedabad and quickly settled in Leah's favorite hotel, Hotel Volga at about 11:30pm. The hotel is tucked away off a main street, is inexpensive and clean. We rested until about 10:30am when we were picked up by our local hosts at the hotel. We drove directly to their facility for a tour and meetings. More on what we learned here another time... After our meetings (all day), we were invited to a going away party for one of our host's current customers, who was moving out of his flat in Ahmedabad. The party was at a roof-top patio, overlooking suburban Ahmedabad and under a canopy of stars. It was a beautiful night. The party was a cosmopolitan affair with guests from Canada, USA, Germany, Spain, Denmark and India. There were designers, architects, teachers, a journalist and business people. It was a great conversation and dinner party.
Umergaon
The next day we were booked on the 2:30pm train south to Umergaon, which is about 3 hours north of Mumbai. We travelled with our hosts from Ahmedabad on the six hour train. We met our Umergaon hosts for dinner at the home and organic farm of our host's family. We ate out at the gazebo in the farm that included a small man-made lake, palm trees, animals, and a host of other indigenous plants. It was another great evening of fine food and more conversations about local industry and organic farming. Since it was a local holiday, the entire family (both sides), including their very cute little girls, were in attendance. We were made to feel very welcome at this family gathering.
The following morning we toured the manufacturing facility of our host, who only deals in organic fabric. We were greeted with a traditional Indian prayer and welcomed with a candle as we were each given a bindi and necklace for good luck. The manufacturing floors were immaculate, another manufacturing facility where I could leave my shoes at the door, it was amazing. There is also a calmness in this place, even though the plant is running at full tilt. The owner is a young man (my age) of few words and calm demeanor, a tribute to the saying "walks softly but carries a big stick". Again, Leah has found another great potential partner here.
Indore
After a quick lunch back at the family farm, we were whisked away to the local train station to catch a train to Mumbai, 3 hours south. The train ride was pleasant, we were in a first class cabin, which is nothing like flying first class, but comfortable all the same. As we headed south, I was struck by the extreme poverty of those who live next to the tracks, with it becoming more pronounced the closer we got to Mumbai. I couldn't help but feel extremely grateful to have been born into a much easier life that the people I saw living in squalor beside the tracks. I'm sure I don't appreciate the comfortable life I have been given nearly enough...
After a quick jaunt for dinner during our 2 hour "layover" at Mumbai Central (which almost turned into disaster as we couldn't find the restaurant we were looking for), we returned to the station with cold finger chips (french fries) and quesadillas 20 minutes before our overnight train to Indore left the station. We settled in for a long night on the train, which was comfortable, though I still didn't get enough sleep. Remember those No Jet Lag pills I was so impressed with? Well, they work too well, methinks, as I've certainly been alert, though at all hours at night. I hope for a full nights sleep soon...
We arrived in Indore (located in central India in the state of Madhya Pradesh) at about 9:30am. We were greeted by our new host, who would drive us 4 hours southwest to an Organic Farm project. The ride itself was an adventure and we learned more at the organic farm, both stories that I will leave with Leah to write...
So we are almost caught up. What a week it has been, a most fruitful trip to be sure! At the halfway point I can already say that this trip has been an unmitigated success and I can't wait to see what the next week brings...
------------------------------------
Originally posted on 2/19/07 by Paul
------------------------------------
Since we have not been able to keep up with each day, I will bring everyone up to speed on where we have been so far and what we have learned...
Ahmedabad
Following our epic day in Coimbatore, Leah and I flew that evening to Ahmedabad and quickly settled in Leah's favorite hotel, Hotel Volga at about 11:30pm. The hotel is tucked away off a main street, is inexpensive and clean. We rested until about 10:30am when we were picked up by our local hosts at the hotel. We drove directly to their facility for a tour and meetings. More on what we learned here another time... After our meetings (all day), we were invited to a going away party for one of our host's current customers, who was moving out of his flat in Ahmedabad. The party was at a roof-top patio, overlooking suburban Ahmedabad and under a canopy of stars. It was a beautiful night. The party was a cosmopolitan affair with guests from Canada, USA, Germany, Spain, Denmark and India. There were designers, architects, teachers, a journalist and business people. It was a great conversation and dinner party.
Umergaon
The next day we were booked on the 2:30pm train south to Umergaon, which is about 3 hours north of Mumbai. We travelled with our hosts from Ahmedabad on the six hour train. We met our Umergaon hosts for dinner at the home and organic farm of our host's family. We ate out at the gazebo in the farm that included a small man-made lake, palm trees, animals, and a host of other indigenous plants. It was another great evening of fine food and more conversations about local industry and organic farming. Since it was a local holiday, the entire family (both sides), including their very cute little girls, were in attendance. We were made to feel very welcome at this family gathering.
The following morning we toured the manufacturing facility of our host, who only deals in organic fabric. We were greeted with a traditional Indian prayer and welcomed with a candle as we were each given a bindi and necklace for good luck. The manufacturing floors were immaculate, another manufacturing facility where I could leave my shoes at the door, it was amazing. There is also a calmness in this place, even though the plant is running at full tilt. The owner is a young man (my age) of few words and calm demeanor, a tribute to the saying "walks softly but carries a big stick". Again, Leah has found another great potential partner here.
Indore
After a quick lunch back at the family farm, we were whisked away to the local train station to catch a train to Mumbai, 3 hours south. The train ride was pleasant, we were in a first class cabin, which is nothing like flying first class, but comfortable all the same. As we headed south, I was struck by the extreme poverty of those who live next to the tracks, with it becoming more pronounced the closer we got to Mumbai. I couldn't help but feel extremely grateful to have been born into a much easier life that the people I saw living in squalor beside the tracks. I'm sure I don't appreciate the comfortable life I have been given nearly enough...
After a quick jaunt for dinner during our 2 hour "layover" at Mumbai Central (which almost turned into disaster as we couldn't find the restaurant we were looking for), we returned to the station with cold finger chips (french fries) and quesadillas 20 minutes before our overnight train to Indore left the station. We settled in for a long night on the train, which was comfortable, though I still didn't get enough sleep. Remember those No Jet Lag pills I was so impressed with? Well, they work too well, methinks, as I've certainly been alert, though at all hours at night. I hope for a full nights sleep soon...
We arrived in Indore (located in central India in the state of Madhya Pradesh) at about 9:30am. We were greeted by our new host, who would drive us 4 hours southwest to an Organic Farm project. The ride itself was an adventure and we learned more at the organic farm, both stories that I will leave with Leah to write...
So we are almost caught up. What a week it has been, a most fruitful trip to be sure! At the halfway point I can already say that this trip has been an unmitigated success and I can't wait to see what the next week brings...
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Originally posted on 2/19/07 by Paul
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